Today was another amazing day on the GOR – and even though it was the same road, just going back the other way, it was equally as beautiful and wonderful as the first day!
Curt was kind enough to let me sleep in a little again, so we got a bit later start than we had originally planned, but it’s ok because we literally had all day to get to Melbourne again.
We got up and going, and went and saw Logan’s Beach in Warrnambool where the Southern Right Whales breed and have their babies starting in June and they have a large viewing platform. These whales are in the baleen family (the kind with the big comb-like teeth), so that’s pretty cool even though we didn’t see any.
Next we stopped at Bay of Islands and Bay of Martyrs for a few great pictures – the coastal landscape all along the GOR is so picturesque! Next stop was Loch and Gorge, which we thought would be another “see, soak in, take the picture and go” stop, but it was so much bigger!
At Loch and Gorge was the Blowhole, Thunder Beach, and Broken Head, which were all hikes in different directions. Each of these was unique so we ended up spending a lot of time here… one of the highlights for this site was there was a bad shipwreck in 1897 (I think) that carried 54 people, of which only two survived. A man, Tom Pearce, the second mate apprentice (I think), who made it to shore at one of the cliff beaches, which was amazingly beautiful, and when he got to shore he heard a scream and turned to see a young woman (Eva Gardiner) clinging to something, so he swam back out and spent the next hour trying to drag her to shore. She was in shock, so he found some brandy that had washed up, took her to a cave and then they both slept for a long time. When they woke, he went for help and rescue… what a story!
So sad though, Eva was a passenger and lost her ENTIRE family (dad, mom, and 5 other brothers and sisters)… they had sailed from Ireland for 3 months to get there (for whatever reason – her dad was a doctor, so maybe something to do with that?), but instead of staying and marrying her hero (which I thought would be a good idea, and apparently 5,000 Australians who watched Tom receive a medal in Melbourne agreed), she stayed in Australia for 3 months (no doubt getting affairs together), and sailed back to Ireland never to return again…. Devastated, I’m sure. It made us reflect on how difficult it must have been for these pioneers… I picked up a book about the women prisoners in this time period who were sent to Australia to this strange new world, which is also giving a lot of insight!

After seeing the cemetery, we headed out to the Twelve Apostles again to catch the same, magnificent sights (in a different light), it was just as AWESOME again the second time! We stayed awhile, again, and then back on the road…
I had mentioned to Curt that we kept seeing these “caution kangaroo” signs, and since he was driving today, I was looking out the window like crazy for any sign of anything! We went through the rainforest soon after, and found Moonlight Head where Wreck Beach was located… drove along the dirt road for about 20 minutes (we kept wondering when we’d reach the point!), and finally found a very off-the-beaten tourist path site (Lisa had told me it was one of their favorites, and it wasn’t too publicized so there was only one other car there). Then we had to climb down a mountain on the trail (and all we could think was holy cow, we have to climb UP this when we’re finished!), but we could tell it was going to be another highlight!
Wreck Beach (as you can deduce from the name), is a very treacherous area that has claimed more than one ship, of which there are still some remains. So we finally got to the bottom, started looking around, and encountered the one other couple and asked which direction the wreckage was. He pointed down the beach to the point, but cautioned us that the tide was coming in, so that put me on SUPER high alert! I mean this place was ocean, rocks, sandy beach, and CLIFFS so definitely not a place you’d want to get caught in! We hurried to walk in the deep sand, beat back the horse flies, and got to an old rusted anchor, and another part of a ship that I don’t know what it was, that have been there so long, they are stuck in the rock formation just sticking out of the sand, like a gravestone – rusted, broken, and standing strong against the elements.
We were ecstatic to be there – the waves were huge and crashing, the ocean was all shades of blue, the wind was blowing so hard we could barely hear each other, and the colors all around us so vivid we will remember it forever.
Sidenote on the flies that is hysterical: There are two kinds here that are everywhere along the coast – a regular small house fly, and horse flies (or what we know as biting flies that hang around horses). For whatever reason, the small house flies SWARM Curt – at any given time he would have literally 20 to 30 around him, with me only struggling with a couple of pesky ones (and so did all the other tourists, it wasn’t like he was Linus or something). Then, for the same “whatever reason,” at different sites, the horse flies LOVED me! I killed probably a dozen and became like Mr. Miagi (sp?)… the flies don’t inhabit the same places, so where he’d be having problems, I’d be fine, and vice versa… so weird, huh? The funniest though was when we were at Loch and Gorge, and he actually INHALED one!
We were headed back to the car, he was swatting as usual, and all of a sudden he started this violent cough and leaned over the rail and started dry heaving! I was like, what the heck is going on? And he was SO PISSED and practically shouted that he inhaled a fly! I couldn’t believe it and thought back to that nursery rhyme… After he said he was ok (but the fly is still in there), I joked that it’s probably still alive in him which kind of grossed him out… hopefully he’ll be fine (though he says it’s no joking matter as he could get an infection, which is true, I just pray his body will know what to do with it – it couldn’t have been the first time that someone has accidentally inhaled something they shouldn’t have, right)?
Anyway, back to GOR Wreck Beach, after we spent time with the wreckage we walked the opposite way to the other point, which seemed to take forever… but along the way we saw starfish in the tide pools, anemones, lots of mollusk type things that are everywhere, and I even found two abelone shells!
Then we started the hike back up the mountain – with the sun shining bright we were dying, but we eventually made it up and blasted the A/C in our car on the long dirt road out of there… exhausted but happy that we just saw something so great!
Then, as if God had heard me earlier, we both spotted something along side of the road that didn’t belong – a Kangaroo (or Wallaby!) It was dark black – it’s coat shined in the sun and it was big and fat, but as we both recognized it, it spied us as well and it was gone in an instant – almost before we could even process what it was! Even so, it was so exciting!
Back on the road, we enjoyed the drive through the rainforest and through Glenaire again (GORGEOUS). Then we got to the Otway National Park lighthouse which was another long drive back in the back country, and again, on the way out near the side of the road, we saw another animal – this time I’m pretty sure it was a wallaby!
Then through Apollo Bay on our way to Lorne (to eat dinner), we saw another small kangaroo – holy smokes, I was so excited! I dared to think we’d see more, and on our next leg we saw a caution sign for Koalas for the next 20km. I started looking in the trees, but not long after we saw a few people on the side of the road looking into the treetops with cameras – BINGO! I told Curt (hurriedly) to pull over, and we got to see 8 koalas – some eating, some sleeping, but all very visible and it was so exciting I wanted to jump up and down! I couldn’t believe our luck!
After we spent some time observing these very interesting animals, we got on the road again to Lorne, enjoying the sun getting low in the sky and the ocean right below us, with the cliffs on our other side (very windy road). Then, JUST as we were coming into Lorne, there was a small river valley with a house higher on the hill, and I spotted a family of grey kangaroos (the BIG ones)! I squealed for Curt to pull over, and what I had seen as 3, we soon found out was 9 scattered around this small hilly field – I was completely and utterly over the moon! My Australia experience is complete (minus the Great Barrier Reef, so almost then, really)! We stayed and watched them for a bit, and at points they watched us as well (they are so much bigger than what we saw in the sanctuary – these guys must be juveniles), and it was just the coolest thing ever…
Then a lovely dinner at the same place (chicken schnitzel again – yum), while we watched wild cockatoos and kookaburras flying all over the place as the sun was setting lower… a loud cacophony that is but still awesome… I find it surreal to see colorful parrots and cockatoos in the wild as common as a cardinal, I keep thinking someone has let their bird from the pet shop go!
And then we finally made it Melbourne after our GPS was a little confused, but we’re happy – it’s been a long day but tomorrow we fly out to Cairns to begin our GBR adventure… Curt noticed that Australia thinks they’re pretty great – everything is called Great X… but really, it is, so I can’t wait to see what the Great Barrier Reef has in store (continued prayers that I get completely better so I can enjoy all it has to offer)!
Miss everyone from home, but yeah, we’re having an amazing time… sigh!